The cathedral without a doubt is one of the great buildings
of the world; its façade is a Baroque masterpiece, and there are even greater
treasures within. The façade stands in front of the original Romanesque
exterior, which can be seen as soon as you step inside the doors. Immediately
before you is the Door of Glory, an astonishing doorway carved in the 12th
century by Master Mateo. At this point, the exhausted pilgrims knew they had
reached their journey’s end; gratefully they reached out and touched the
central pillar, which has become quite worn away from centuries of touching.
Master Mateo is also represented on the central pillar beneath St James, and
those who pass through the Portico de la Gloria sometimes bump heads with Mateo
in the hope of absorbing some of his genius!The focus of attention within the dark interior of the
cathedral is the gleaming 13th-century statue of St James; were visitors are permitted to climb the stairs behind the altar kiss his well worked mantle.
The cathedral’s museum and treasury are well worth a visit,
to see some of the library’s valuable religious works and collection of
tapestries. In the library you will see a huge incense burner called a
botafumeiro; on feast days this is hung from the transept dome keystone and, with
half a dozen men clinging desperately to the other end of the rope, is swung to
the eaves — one year, it is said, the men lost control and the incense burner
flew into the square outside.
Plaza de Espana This magnificent square is bordered on one
side by the Baroque façade of the cathedral and the bishop’s palace, on the
opposite side by the impressive 18th-century town hall, formerly Raxoy Palace.
On the square’s south side is San Jeronimo College —opposite this, on the north
side, is perhaps Santiago’s second greatest asset, the Hotel de Los Reyes
Catolicos.
The old streets are one of the great pleasures of Santiago,
to walk through the old streets that run up to the cathedral. The best are the
Rua del Villar, Rua Nueva and Calle Franco; fashionable clothes shops stand
next to ancient grocery shops run by wizened old ladies swathed in black.



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